Fri, 01/06/2012 - 19:27 — admin
Happy Aloha Friday. Surf at dawn patrol at Diamond Head this morning was surprisingly fun. Not sure where the bump came from because the reports basically said flat, but it was in the chest high and maybe a few shoulder high sets. It was pretty clean and the wind was minimal still. I took out a long board, which I hate, based on how small it has been all week. I could have been riding a shorter board for sure but I got some really fun rights and was figuing out how the long boarders do it. Some really long rides on that board so I was stoked. Get out if you can, even on town-side today.
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